Coyoacán
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Once a small town south of the city, Coyoacán has now become another of Mexico City’s picturesque, historic neighborhoods. Its narrow streets lined with colonial-era mansions and shady plazas draw visitors in, as the aroma of coffee and traditional dishes waft out of sidewalk cafés.
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▟ On the weekends, the lovely plazas are particularly lively. Families gather, couples stroll, and children are entertained by mimes, musicians, and maybe even a play.
Called the “place of the coyotes” in Nahuatl—the area’s indigenous language—this was Cortés’ base after the fall of Tenochtitlan.
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In fact, it is said the Aztec emperor Cuauhtémoc was tortured by the Spanish here to try to make him reveal where his treasures were hidden.
▟ Coyoacán has several special spots to visit, the most famous of which may be the Blue House, or Museo Frida Kahlo. It was the painter’s home throughout her life, and visitors can see just how it was when she was living. Her work, with that of other artists, is showcased here. There is also her collection of pre-Hispanic objects and Mexican crafts.
Special details include her regional garments and Diego Rivera’s collection of retablo votive paintings. There is truly no better place to appreciate this remarkable artist.
▌One of the people who moved in Frida and Diego’s glamorous, leftist intellectual circle was Leon Trotsky, after he fled Russia. The house where he and his wife lived is only a few blocks from the Blue House.
The bullet holes from the first attempt on his life and the papers in his study remain as they were, and Trotsky’s ashes are entombed in the garden.
▟ Looming up in dark volcanic stone is Anahuacalli, a dramatic museum designed by Diego Rivera to spotlight his collection of pre-Hispanic art, as well as being one of his studios with some of his work. You can see pottery and stone figures, and get a glimpse at Rivera’s process, as there are studies for his major murals.
Visitors that are lucky enough to get there on a clear day can enjoy a great view over the city from the roof.
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▌Tucked between the two main squares, the Parroquia de San Juan Bautista is a breathtaking baroque-style church built in 1560. The gold-covered altar and highly detailed decoration is truly spectacular.
Viveros de Coyoacán ▌
is a leafy park; its over 22 acres offer a respite from the city. Along the plaza or through the trees, find your favorite spot to stroll.
Coyoacán has held onto its unique, small-town airs even as it has become part of the bustling city.
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Whether you’re into art or historic buildings, be sure to keep an eye out for the colorful streetcars and fill up at one of the street food markets.
